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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.